New Mexico Public Lands
The Bureau of Land Management’s Las Cruces Resource Area – The Chihuahuan Desert and the Southern Terminus
Most of the Chihuahuan Desert—the largest desert in North America covering more than 200,000 square miles—lies south of the international border. In the U.S. it extends into parts of New Mexico, Texas and sections of southeastern Arizona. Its minimum elevation is above 1,000 feet, but the vast majority of this desert lies at elevations between 3,500 and 5,000 feet.
Winter temperatures are cool, and summer temperatures are extremely hot. Most of the area receives less than 10 inches of rainfall yearly. While some winter rain falls, most precipitation occurs during the summer months.
This desert covers such a large area that it is difficult to characterize its geology, but limestone and calcareous soils are common.
Like the Great Basin Desert, this is a shrub desert, but the biological diversity of perennial plant life is relatively low. Yuccas and agaves, growing with grasses and often Creosote Bushes, give this desert its characteristic appearance.
Prickly-pears and Mormon Tea are also prevalent. Tarbush is sometimes a dominant shrub. Honey Mesquite grows along washes and playas. White-thorn Acacia, Allthorn and Ocotillo are other large, conspicuous plants of the Chihuahuan Desert.
Gila National Forest
Popular theory says that the word Gila was derived from a Spanish contraction of Hah-quah-sa-eel, a Yuma Indian word meaning running water which is salty. The naming of the Gila National Forest is indicative of its interesting history and beauty. The Forest, tucked away in southwestern New Mexico, is a paradise for those seeking solitude and escape from modern society’s busy lifestyle.
Every national forest offers its own unique beauty. The Gila’s beauty is in its own diversity of rugged mountains, deep canyon, meadows, and semi-desert country. Elevations range from 4,200 to 10,900 feet and cover four of the six life zones. Flora and fauna are diverse. Ocotillo and cactus are found in the lower elevations, and juniper, pine, aspen, and spruce-fir forests are plentiful in the high mountains. Wildlife such as the black bear, mountain lion, elk, deer, antelope, bighorn sheep, and wild turkey inhabit the Forest while the bald eagle, peregrine falcon, and the red-tailed hawk soar in the wind.
The Gila National Forest boasts a rich history of the Mogollon and Apache Indians, Spainards, Mexicans, ranchers, prospectors and miners. Apache Cheifs Mangas Coloradas, Geronimo, and Victoio, Aldo Leopold: conservationist, ecologist and author of the Sand County Almanac, and renowned lion hunter Ben Lilly are but a few of the personalities from the past that have left a mark in the Gila. Place names like Raw Meat Canyon, Tepee Canyon and Grave Canyon tell the tales of the past.
Another unique beauty of the Gila National Forest is its wilderness. The CDT travels through the Gila and Aldo Leopold Wildernesses offering unparalleled hiking and horseback riding. The magnificence of these mountainous regions imparts an indescribable feeling of awe and wonderment.
Aldo Leopold Wilderness
Aldo Leopold Wilderness is located astride the crest of the Black Range of southwestern New Mexico and is a portion of the original Gila Wilderness fostered by Aldo Leopold. Rising from hot, dry desert and semi-desert the Black Range stands as a prominent land feature from nearly all directions. Aldo Leopold Wilderness is 202,016 acres in size and contains the most rugged and wild portion of this mountain range. The deep canyons and precipitous timbered ridges typical of this area extend to the east, south, and west and support a natural blending of resources making the area outstanding as a wilderness. The mark of man and evidence of his activities are relatively obscure. Over a wide range in elevation, a network of deep canyons, rincons, timbered benches and many high vista points offer solitude and an opportunity for the visitor to escape the clutches of a mechanistic civilization. The superlative beauty of this wild and broken country is a natural setting for spiritual refreshment through self-evaluation.
The Gila Wilderness
The Gila Wilderness is located in southwestern New Mexico, lying west of the Continental Divide in Catron and Grant Counties. It is about 25 miles north of Silver City, 3 miles east of Glenwood, 44 miles south of Reserve, and 22 miles northwest of Mimbres. Its mosaic of vegetative types, climatic conditions, and topographic features, enriched by abundant solitude, offer a challenge to visitors. The variety of plant and animal life, supported by varied ecologic niches, provides a greater opportunity for informal nature study and scientific study than is available in most southwestern wildernesses. The pleasant blending of natural resources in an untrammeled state, where the mark of man and his activities is relatively obscure, makes this wilderness an outstanding area to visit. The Continental Divide Trail links to an extensive trail system that provides a variety of hiking and horseback opportunities within a total land area of 558,065 acres.
Bureau of Land Management’s Socorro Field Office – The Pelona Mountains
The Continental Divide Wilderness Study Area (WSA) and the Pelona Mountains run between the Gila National Forest’s Black Range and Quemado Districts. The Continental Divide WSA is located in Catron County, 30 miles south of Datil and a short distance north of the Gila Wilderness. As the name implies, the Continental Divide winds its way through the unit as does 20 miles of the Continental Divide Trail, which runs east-west across the entire unit. Vast sagebrush and grasslands that roll over high plateaus formed from lava flows characterize most of the unit. The central portion around Pelona Mountain contains pinyon-juniper forests with Ponderosa pines found in many canyons and on the north sides of the higher peaks. Elevations range from 6,800 to 9,212 feet. Canyons on the north side of the Continental Divide drain to the closed drainage basin of the Plains of San Agustin. Those south of the Divide drain to Coyote and Railroad Canyons with a few draining to Corduroy Canyon, forming the headwaters of the East Fork of the Gila River.
The dramatic contrast of the flat basins and the rolling grasslands with the surrounding mountains gives these units high scenic quality. The precipitous drop to the Plains of San Agustin from mountains in the north side of the area offers unique views of vast, undeveloped space and geologic time. The Continental Divide Complex exists in the middle of one of the largest areas in the US without a major city. This fact combined with its diverse terrain and the sheer vastness of some of the grasslands makes it an outstanding place to experience the quiet and solitude of wilderness. Exceptional recreational opportunities include: hiking, backpacking, big game hunting, wildlife viewing, bird watching, archeological sightseeing, nature photography, and star-gazing.
Eleven historical/ archaeological sites have been recorded within the Continental Divide unit. Nine are historical homesteads or associated features, the tenth is a historical grave, and the eleventh is Bat Cave, which is on the National Register of Historic Places. Bat Cave is a remnant from a time when tribes of the Mogollon Culture lived on the shores of an ancient lake that filled the Plains of San Agustin.
El Malpais National Monument
El Malpais National Monument and Conservation Area was established in 1987 and is a relative newcomer to the National Park System. This monument preserves 114,277 acres of which 109,260 acres are federal and 5,017 are private. El Malpais means the badlands, but contrary to its name this unique area holds many surprises, many of which researchers are now unraveling. Volcanic features such as lava flows, cinder cones, pressure ridges and complex lava tube systems dominate the landscape. Closer inspection reveals unique Sandstone bluffs and mesa border the eastern side, providing access to vast wilderness.
For more than 10,00 years people have interacted with the El Malpais landscape. Historic and archeological sites provide reminders of past times. More than mere artifacts, these cultural resources are kept alive by the spiritual and physical presence of contemporary Indian groups, including the Puebloan peoples of Acoma, Laguna, and Zuni and the Ranah Navajo. These tribes continue their ancestral uses of El Malpais including gathering herbs and medicines, paying respect, and renewing ties.
Cibola National Forest
Like most of the National Forests located in the western states, the Cibola National Forest grew out of lands that originally were known as Forest Reserves. These reserves were first established in the late 1800s and early 1900s as a means of affording protection to natural resources, such as watersheds, trees, and soils. Cibola, pronounced See ’ -bo-lah, is thought to be the original Zuni Indian name for their group of pueblos or tribal lands. Later, the Spanish interpreted the word to mean, “buffalo.”
The Cibola National Forest is 1,625,542 acres in size. Elevation ranges from 5,000-11, 301 feet. The Cibola includes the Datil, Gallinas, Magdalena, Bear, Manzano, Sandia, San Mateo, Mt. Taylor, and Zuni Mountains. There are four wildernesses contained within the forest: the Sandia Mountain, Manzano Mountain, Withington, and Apache Kid.
Climate varies with elevation from desert up through juniper, pine, and spruce-fir forests. Sandia Crest, elevation 10,678 feet, is accessible by road, aerial tramway, and trails. Capillia Peak, elevation 9,375 feet, is accessible by road and trails. Mount Taylor, elevation 11,301 feet, has a good road to within a mile of the top. There are several other scenic drives available. The area is open to reacreation year-around, although the high country winter is severe. Summer nights are cool, cold above 8,000 feet. July and August have frequent afternoon showers due to the monsoon season.
Bureau of Land Management’s Albuquerque Field Office – Cabezon Country and the Rio Puerco Drainage
Cabezon Country is located approximately 20 miles west of the town of San Ysidro. The focal point of the area is Cabezon Peak, the dramatic volcanic formation that is one of the most well known landmarks in northwest New Mexico. Cabezon Peak, elevation 7,785 feet, is part of the Mount Taylor volcanic field and is the largest of several volcanic necks, including Cerro Cuate, rising from the Rio Puerco Valley. Dramatic basaltic cliffs on Cabezon provide a close view of the internal plumbing of an ancient volcano.
To the north of Cabezon Peak and Cerro Cuate are the dramatic cliffs and sandstone canyons of Mesa San Luis. Empedrado encompasses lava-capped mesa tops and the major drainages of Arroyo Chico and Torreon Wash. Mesa Crotalo is found at the western edge of Cabezon Country. This area is characterized by open grasslands separated by a series of sandstone mesas, each with its own set of unusual shapes, hoodoos, and geologic oddities. The most dramatic of these mesas is aptly named Battleship.
To the south, the land rises sharply to Mesa Chivato with cool pine forests and elevations over 8,000 feet. Mesa Chivato is composed of basaltic lava flows that erupted from Mount Taylor 3.3 to 1.5 million years ago. These flows cap colorful Cretaceous shoreline and marine rock layers that are well exposed where the lava cap ends and the elevation drops quickly to the Arroyo Chico to the north.
The Rio Puerco flows through Cabezon Country, passing close by Cerro Cuate before making a dramatic bend to the south. Three of this region’s major drainages, La Canada Santiago, La Canada de la Lena, and Arroyo Chico, all join the Rio Puerco as it winds through the Cerro Cuate unit. Sections of Arroyo Chico are a perennial stream and support riparian habitat.
The outstanding scenic feature of the Cabezon Country is Cabezon Peak itself. It is the subject of countless photographs and paintings, attesting to the area’s beauty and wild character. In addition to Cabezon Peak, the area’s scenery includes other impressive volcanic plugs such as Cerro Cuate, Cerro Chafo, Cerro de Santa Clara, and Cerro Parido. Colorful sandstone cliffs and unique hoodoos give Mesa Crotalo, Empedrado, La Lena and San Luis aesthetic appeal. The Boca del Oso (Bears Mouth) is a distinctive rocky feature jutting out from the edge of the Mesa Chivato.
Hiking opportunities are excellent in Cabezon Country. Cabezon Peak has a primitive trail that allows hikers to climb to the top and enjoy spectacular views of the entire Rio Puerco Valley. The Continental Divide Trail weaves its way through several units in the complex. Although other areas have no established trails, the open terrain provides ample opportunities for cross-country exploration and primitive recreation. The backside of the cliffs of the San Luis Mesa feature a maze of canyons that invite exploration and provide outstanding opportunities to experience the quiet and solitude of wilderness. Bird watching here is also excellent due to the raptor-nesting habitat on the cliffs. Recreational activities in the area also include horseback riding, hunting, backpacking, rock climbing, and geological and archaeological sightseeing.
Santa Fe National Forest
The Santa Fe National Forest covers 1.6 million acres in the heart of north central New Mexico. Within the forest’s borders are lush meadows, miles of conifer trees, and a dormant volcano with a 15-mile wide crater (Valles Caldera National Preserve). The highest point in the Santa Fe National Forest is the summit of Truchas Peak located in the Pecos Wilderness at 13,103 feet. At the lowest altitude, the Santa Fe NF is 6,000 feet.
The climate in northern New Mexico is mild. Daytime temperatures in the mid-80’s and chilly nights characterize the summer and fall months. The monsoon season begins mid-July and lasts until mid-September. Hikers and campers should prepare for these rainstorms.
Chama River Canyon Wilderness
The Rio Chama Wilderness encompasses 50,300 acres in northwest New Mexico. The U.S. Department of Agriculture designated the land a wilderness area in 1978 and in 1986 the Rio Chama, that flows through the wilderness, was deemed a Wild and Scenic River.
Ponderosa Pine, Willows and Cottonwoods populate the landscape as well as a range of shrubs and desert grasses. The walls of the Chama Canyon are a striking variety of colors from yellows to maroons marking the distinct sedimentary layers of rock.
Between 70 and 80 different bird varieties can be found in the Chama River Canyon. Raptors, hawks, and owls perch along the canyon walls and surrounding trees. On the ground, mule deer, elk coyote, black bear among other animals can be seen searching the canyon for food. Cattle also are seen grazing in areas of the wilderness during summer months.
The Chama River Canyon Wilderness is located in the Coyote Ranger District of the Santa Fe National Forest. Small areas of the wilderness also extend into the Carson National Forest.
San Pedro Parks Wilderness
In 1931, the Chief of the Forest Service classified a 41,132-acre area in the San Pedro Mountains of western New Mexico as a Primitive Area. Ten years later the Secretary of Agriculture recognized the land as a Wild Area. It wasn’t until 1965 that the San Pedro Parks Wilderness was officially designated.
The defining features of the Parks are the large grassy meadows framed by dense stands of spruce and mixed conifer trees. Elk, deer, black bear, turkey and other wildlife call this expansive grounds their home. The San Pedro Parks is also open to cattle grazing for ranchers with permits.
The San Gregorio Lake is the main body of water in the Parks. Various streams cut through the meadows and mountains supporting the native Rio Grande Cutthroat population. Fishing and hiking in the Parks are popular summer past times. In the winter, cross-country skiing and snowshoeing is popular.
The San Pedro Parks Wilderness is located in the southern portion of the Coyote Ranger District and the northern portion of the Cuba Ranger Districts. Access is possible through both districts.
Carson National Forest
The Carson National Forest is one of five National Forests in New Mexico. Some of the finest mountain scenery in the Southwest is found in the 1.5 million acres covered by the Carson National Forest. Elevations range from 6,000 feet to 13,161 feet at Wheeler Peak, the highest in New Mexico. The Ghost Ranch Living Museum near Abiquiu is the only Forest Service facility to feature live, native wildlife from bears to porcupines to horned owls. In addition, Ghost Ranch contains exhibits of northern New Mexico plant life and environmental and archaeological displays.